Two Roads Lead to Roncesvalles

Regardless of which route you choose, you still have to cross the Pyrenees! Both ways are good options for getting into Spain. On my first Camino, I was lucky enough to have a crystal clear late April day to hike in the mountains. Leaving SJPP along with about 300 other pilgrims, I pushed hard enough to arrive in Roncesvalles 7 hours later. As this was my first Camino and my excitement to get started was over-the-top, I was very grateful to head up the mountain with do many newly found pilgrim friends. If there is a downside to the Napoleon Route, its that once it starts going up (almost immediately after leaving town), it’s uphill all the way to the summit with the steepest part of the route in the first section between SJPP and Orisson. Nonetheless, on a clear day, the views are stunning. 

The Valcarlos Route, although initially flatter, still has a steep section in the second half of the trip across the mountains. As the town of Valcarlos is further along in this stage, it makes for an excellent location for a break. After Valcarlos the steeper part of the crossing comes into play. Nonetheless, the distance to Roncesvalles and the time it takes to get there is about the same regardless of route. This route is neither as wide open as the Napoleon nor as crowded. Most of the time, we had the trail entirely to ourselves only occasionally seeing fellow pilgrims. The day we crossed was on the cloudy and misty side so picking the Valcarlos Route was a great choice. After a refreshing beer in Roncesvalles, it was just another short 3 kilometers to Burguete for our first night along The Way.